Thursday, November 6, 2014

Winter is Coming...

I woke up on November 1 with about 2" of snow on my car.  I have an old down filled jacket/winter coat that a friend told me at the end of last winter makes me look like I'm pregnant.  I've worn this coat for years, thanks!  Anyway, the snow snapped me back to reality and I got to work.

I searched through my stash (which I must say is high disorganized and basically jammed into unmarked boxes in my crawlspace storage area so searching is not a fun experience most of the time.  I really must take some time to reorganize!!)  Anyway...I searched through my stash and the first piece of coating fabric I came across was an olive green wool melton.  I  love this colour.

I decided on Vogue 8933.  I chose this pattern because of the fantastic collar.  When I laid out the pattern pieces I only had enough yardage for view A (but all in the same fabric, not with contrasting sleeves as the pattern suggests).
V8933, Misses' Coat

Line Art
The pattern is available in sizes 8-16 and 16-24.  I cut a size 14, which is my standard Big 4 size.  I did a 6 cm swayback adjustment in the centre back seam and added 4 cm to the sleeve length for my longer arms.  I love the final look.

 I found the sleeves to be a bit narrow, so next time I make this pattern (and I will certainly be making it again, maybe in the long length) I will adjust the pattern to make them a bit wider.  The only tricky part about the construction was inserting the collar into the back neckline. It's not difficult per se, but rather a bit piddly to get the rounded part sewn to the squared area where the back shoulder meets the neckline.  But because this was wool, giving it a shot of steam with the iron really helped ease that area.

This jacket is also lined.  I chose to line it with an olive green Bemberg because that is what I had on hand.  I'm really trying hard to only sew out of the stash!  For coats, I normally would use a Kasha lining, which is heavier and has a napped side that feels similar to a lightweight flannelette.  The other thing I normally do for a coat or outerwear jacket is to add a layer of flannelette in between the outer fabric and the lining.  I usually cut out the front, back and sleeves, but because the sleeves on this version turned out a bit narrow, I didn't want to add anymore layers.

There are pockets in the side seams - I think pockets in a coat are essential.  I added fusible interfacing to the side seams where the pockets are for a bit of extra support.  I also added fusible interfacing to the sleeve cap area and the upper back instead of a back stay.  I added a sleeve head, which in this case was a piece of flannelette about 3 cm wide cut on the bias and used that to ease the sleeve cap.  It makes the sleeve easier to insert into the body, but it also adds shaping and support to the sleeve cap when the jacket is being worn.

I used four very large antiqued bronze snaps as the closures.  I love the collar of this jacket, you can style it in a few different ways, but my favourite part is that I can wrap it right up and around your neck to beat the polar vortex we all know is coming!!

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