I have this box. It is a rather unassuming box, filled with projects I've cut out in the past. You see, I have this...thing. I LOVE cutting out. The anticipation, the possibilities and the dreams are still fresh at this point. Before any issues with fitting or sewing. But then life and reality get in the way of my sewing time, or I run out of steam, and the box remains full of unassembled pieces. This isn't anything new for me (if you've seen my last post on the 9 year coat, you'll know what I'm talking about!)
Anyways, I have made a point of trying to work my way through the box this fall. You've already seen a few of those garments, but on the weekend, after my pattern drafting and sewing homework, I pulled out this beauty, Vogue 8593. I had cut it out in a medium weight ponte de roma fabric in a rusty or burnt orange collar (one of my favourites colours, I will have to admit!)
I have no idea when I cut this dress out, but it can't be more than 2 or 3 years ago. I cut the size 12, but sewed it with smaller seam allowances to hopefully make up for the fact that I'm a tad bigger now than I was when I originally cut it out. This is a definite downside to the mass-cutting sessions I usually like to binge on, especially when I don't sew them right away!!
The dress has pleats at the front neckline with a facing, back darts from the upper back area at the shoulder, as well as the shoulder blade area straight down to the hemline. There is a zipper at the back. At first I thought I wouldn't include the zipper because it is a knit dress but then I decided to include it, given the small size of the neck.
In my recent sewing courses, I have learned to interface the wrong side of the seam allowances at the zipper, and it really makes a big difference with how the zipper is inserted. It makes it much easier to insert, and it gives a much more of a professional finish to the garment, particularly in a knit. Sometimes in a knit the zipper causes the seam to go a bit wavy. The interfacing provides some stabilization in the area, and the results look as smooth as any other seam.
The pattern includes three options for sleeveless, 3/4 length sleeves and full sleeves. I chose to make the full sleeve length. The full length sleeves have darts at the elbow. Since learning how to draft these in my pattern drafting class a few weeks ago, I've stumbled across three patterns I had previously cut out that ALL have darts in the sleeves! I love this style for the shaping it provides at the elbow.
I struggled a bit with the pleats at the neckline but that was most likely because I was a little tired and trying to watch a movie at the time. Multi-tasking isn't all its made out to be! Once I slowed down, carefully marked them on the fabric, and reviewed what I was actually supposed to be doing, they worked out fine. The only problem I am experiencing is that the facing seems to pop out just a bit at the centre front, despite edge stitching the facing. It is also a touch snug for me, but that is completely my fault with trying to sew it in a smaller size than I actually measure. :) Good incentive to avoid the holiday treats. I will more than likely make this dress again. This time in my size.