FO, Christine Jonson Patterns Travel Trio One, Center Seam Pants

I've been feverishly working away at my Queen of Dots SWAP plans.  With four items already finished, I'm using the momentum I'm gaining with the excitement of each finished object.  I was reminded of Christine Jonson Patterns by their recent pants sew-along in their Facebook group.  I have always liked Christine's patterns - Christine offers a wide range of paper patterns that work so well together.  A lot of these can now be purchased as a PDF as well.  Christine focuses on using knit fabrics for her patterns, and as a result her line of patterns makes the ideal solution for a travel wardrobe.  Spring is always a busy time for me, with a lot of travel for work to regional tradeshows.  My Queen of Dots SWAP was planned with these tradeshows in mind, which is why I included some knit separates.  My next choice was the Christine Jonson Travel Trio One, Center Seam Pants out of the same medium weight black ponte that the Christine Jonson Basewear Two Tapered skirt was made out of.

My measurements placed me in the size 16 waist and 14 hip, however, when I did the stretch test, I was worried the fabric wouldn't be stretchy enough.  I was hoping to avoid a compression legging/sausage casing style pant, and wanted more of a flared trouser style, so I sized up to size 18 for the waist and size 16 for the hip (and lower).  I scooped out/lowered the back crotch curve by about 1" to get rid of the standard wrinkling that I get pooling under my buttocks/at the tops of my hamstring area.  I also scooped out about 3/8" from the front crotch curve to get rid of the camel toe look I commonly get (so my crotch seam now looks more like a U than J).  I'm not sure that makes any sense, I can add some sketches to show you more details on this if you like - just let me know.  I also lengthened the pattern at the lengthen/shorten line by the knee by 6".

I made sure to carefully label each piece - right side/wrong side, as well as inner front/outer front vs. inner back/outer back.  I find when I'm sewing I end up not paying attention to these things and need visual reminders of what piece goes where.

I ended up taking in about an inch off of each side seam - this is consistent with the changes I had to make to the Tapered skirt, also from Christine Jonson Patterns, and also out of the same fabric.  In hindsight (see what I did there, lol), I should have all of the seams equally across the back.  As a result, my centre seams at the back are more on the side back than the centre back, but if anyone is looking that closely and comments on it, I'll have something else to say to them about what they're looking at ;)  I love how the yoke looks, but when I tried it on once I had sewn it together, the waist came up really high - around my natural waistline.  I have long legs (34" inseam for flats, 35-36" for heels), but I am also shortwaisted and dislike a seam line hitting me at the natural waist.  So, I lopped off the yoke and attached a stitch and turn elastic waist instead.  Maybe I should have called this SWAP The Queen of Lopping instead?!

I really like the finished pants.  They feel like very flattering secret pyjamas!  The weight of the ponte is great for a bootcut pant, and doesn't show every lump and bump!  You'll have to take my word for it because right now I only have these photographs to show you.

Taking photographs is quite difficult for me.  I don't have access to a photographer, I'm a bit lazy about taking my own pictures and end up using my cell phone camera at night.  The lighting in my Atelier is not so great during the day, and even worse at night.  I hope to take some pictures later this week with a better camera, a tripod, and in a different location during the day so you can actually see how these pants fit me.  But until then, you'll have to make do with these photos.

Up next on the sewing table:

RAWRRRR!!! A FO

I was able to carve out some time in my Atelier this weekend (sounds so much better than sewing room in the basement, doesn't it?!), and finished a few more items for my Queen of the Dots SWAP.  When I sew my SWAPs, I try to do a bit of "production" sewing by sewing all of the items that use the same colour thread one after the other before changing out the thread.  My last FO (finished object) was the Image Wear 1002 top, which used red thread, so up next I decided to do the Agnes Top in the red leopard? animal print? brushed lightweight sweater knit fabric.

I got this fabric at my local Fabricland last week when I was shopping for the items for my daughter's pink dress.  Now, I *know* I'm aiming for the goal of only intentionally buying fabric (as in, something I have researched or planned rather than simply seeing it and purchasing it), but red.leopard.print.  Com'on!

Anyway...two meters came home with me for the Tilly and the Buttons Agnes tee. I have made the Agnes Tee quite a few times already, and it's a very straight forward sew that I can whip up in about two hours, including the cutting time.  My adjustments include a 3/4" swayback adjustment, adding 1" to the length of the sleeves and widening the sleeve from the elbow to the wrist, adding about 1/2" on each seam to make it a bit wider at the wrist.  I find on some of my earlier versions that were made without this adjustment I can't pull up my sleeves, which I like to do often.

When I finished that top, I took another look at my SWAP plans and one of my extras included a red Blackwood Cardigan by Helen's Closet.  I've also made three or four of these previously and they get a lot of wear.  They are cozy, yet make me feel put together.  I cut this version out of the left-over yardage I had in a medium weight red sweater knit, also from Fabricland but a long time ago.  I added about 2" to the centre front from just over the bust all the way down to the hem, to make it close a little more over my chest.  I also made my typical 3/4" swayback adjustment.  Other than that, it's pretty close to the pattern as printed.  The hardest part about this particular sweater was working within the confines of the piecemeal yardage I had, but I was determined to get this sweater out of it!

Reviewing my plans showed that I don't have much in the way of red items left for the main portion of my SWAP, so I switched out my threads to black for the next phase of sewing.

I cut and stitched a black ponte skirt made from the Basewear Two pattern by Christine Jonson patterns.  It was a super fast - I mean really super fast.  Two side seams, elastic waist and a hem.  Based on my measurements, I am a size 16 hip and 18 waist. I sized up to a 18 waist and 20 hip, because when I did the stretch test, the ponte seemed to have less give than what the pattern called for.  I ended up cutting it down when I tried it on for my first fitting before adding the elastic at the waist - it's probably a size 14 waist and 12 hip.  Even with the fitting snaffoo, its still a super simple and very quick make, made in about an hour (including cutting time).

Here's a recap of my Queen of the Dots wardrobe so far: