Happy New Year!

Yes, I know it's February.  Today, however, is the Lunar New Year.  I had a friend over on the weekend for a Sewing Day and we got to talking about how we didn't really live up to our expectations for ourselves for this year (aka we totally sucked at some of our plans only one month in).  We decided to use the Lunar New Year as a turning point to reassess and make some adjustments in our plans for the coming year.  We also decided we're going to be accountable to each other for some of our plans.

The past six months or so for me have been somewhat of a blur.  An amazing blur, but a blur nonetheless.  Work has been crazy busy, with a change in positions. It's been an adjustment but it's working out very well.  I enjoyed a vacation that saw my entire family together celebrating the wedding of my brother to my favourite sister-in-law.   My daughter and her spouse announced that they are expecting their second child, and my first grandchild has grown in leaps and bounds (literally and figuratively).  I travelled A LOT. I spent one weekend in September at Disney for a very close friend's birthday.  I spent the following weekend in New Orleans for work. I also travelled a lot for work in my home province, essentially I only spent at most two nights in a row at home through the entire month.   As a result, I was sick as a dog in November with sinusitis, bronchitis and an ear infection that took a lot out of me.  As soon as I recovered, December was in the full Christmas spirit swing, seeing the usual round of social activities, parties and family get-togethers.  I rang in January with what is now happily becoming my traditional Sewing Retreat.  In all honesty, I'm not really sure where January went, but it's been cold and snowy.  And here we are, February and all caught up.

I've been sharing some of my makes on Instagram (I have a private account, but if you've got sewing or knitting or something related in your profile, I will approve your request to follow me), but am very aware of how little I've shared on this blog.  I'm not going to apologize, but I really do miss the accountability factor that sharing my goals and planning blog posts bring to me.  I can't promise how much I'll actually be posting, but I really do enjoy interacting with my sewing friends online.  So...let's get on with the most recent post!

I have been sewing like someone obsessed, because...well...I am! Ringing in the (calendar) New Year with a sewing retreat reset my creativity and made me really want to spend some more dedicated time in my Atelier.  I'm currently working through some planning that I did a few weeks ago and have almost finished the capsule that I planned. 

There are a lot of options for planning a capsule wardrobe.  For this one, I chose the Sewing Sudoku method as the basis for this wardrobe.  You can find a free printable here:  Melly Sews Wardrobe Sudoku Planner. I have a work trip at the mid-to-end of February and thought this would make the perfect opportunity to work a few new things into my wardrobe.  The Sudoku method sees four tops and four bottoms coordinated with four pairs of footwear/shoes and four accessories.  For this plan, I am including all layering pieces rather than accessories as it is COLD in Canada in the winter and I need the extra pieces in my wardrobe to stay warm. I LOVE my accessories and will be adding them in, but not in a formalized plan.

My plan is this:

WARM WINTER SUDOKU WARDROBE

Tops
Top #1 - Butterick 3124, Sandra Betzina Today's Fit with cowl neck (view A), in olive green stretch lace


Top #2 - McCalls 5536 Twist Top (view C & E), in espresso brown rayon/lycra jersey


Top #3 - Butterick 3124, Sandra Betzina Today's Fit shell (view B), in cream stretch lace


Top #4 - Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse, in cream lightweight polyester textured crepe


Bottoms
Bottom #1 - Vogue7607 asymmetrical skirt, in olive green textured faux leatherette


Bottom #2 - Vogue 8202 wide-legged jeans, in espresso brown fine wale corduroy


Bottom #3 - Simplicity 4596 pleated skirt (View A), in greige textured faux leatherette


Bottom #4 - Closet Case Ginger Jeans,  in rust orange lightweight stretch denim


Layering Pieces
Layering Piece #1 - Vogue 7764 military style jacket, in olive green cotton velveteen


Layering Piece #2 - New Look 6013 vest, in a heavyweight sueded olive green knit


Layering Piece #3 - Vogue 1517 jacket, in brown wool blend suiting

Layering Piece #4 - McCalls 7257 cardigan jacket in loosely woven fabric in cream, rust orange, khaki, and burgundy


Shoes
Shoes #1 - Brown faux alligator heeled pumps
Shoes #2 - Khaki boots, similar in styling to faux Doc Martin
Shoes #3 - Cognac low heeled riding boots
Shoes #4 - Cognac suede booties

I'll have to buy a few notions but this plan uses mostly items from my stash - even some vintage stash! 

I love planning wardrobe capsules.  I love new clothes and I love being able to have a highly wearable wardrobe when they're completed. 

#makenine2018

I wasn't originally going to take part in the Make Nine project this year.  Despite my love of SWAPs, I don't really like being tied to specific patterns as I am more of an intuitive sewist - meaning I sew how I feel.  If I feel like sewing a bathing suit in the middle of winter, then I'll sew a bathing suit.  If I feel like sewing a parka in the middle of summer, I'll do that too.  Then, this morning, while scrolling through my Instagram account, I totally got caught up in all the beautiful plans people are posting and the next thing I knew, I had a list in my bullet journal of the nine patterns I want to include in my sewing plans for this year.

#1.  Toaster Sweater, Sew House Seven (found here)

photo credit: www.sewhouse7.com

I have seen so many beautiful comfy looking makes of this pattern that I just can't help jumping on this bandwagon.  I need to improve my lounging game from flannel pants and a ratty old sweatshirt and this fits the bill nicely.  I already own this pattern, which is a plus.  My first planned version of this will be in grey heathered terry.

#2.  Ultimate Trousers, Sew Over It (found here)

photo credit:  www.sewoverit.co.uk

I am a huge fan of Lisa Comfort, and I've sewn a few of the Sew Over It patterns in the past. In fact, there are very few patterns from SOI that I don't own.  These have been on my list for-EVAH.  2018 is the year I'll finally get around to sewing them.

#3.  Ella Blouse, Sew Over It (found here)

photo credit:  www.sewoverit.co.uk

Read what I wrote for #2.  Ditto.

#4.  Fenway Bra, Orange Lingerie (found here)

photo credit: www.orange-lingerie.com

I've owned this pattern since it came out too, and I've been putting off sewing it because of the perceived  angst I'd have to go through in order to get it to fit just right.  I'm now envisioning all of the lovely pretty lingerie I could have if I just got over the angst-y part of it.  I'm also riding the high on my recent success with my Boylston Bra makes (view here) so I figured I should give it a go!

#5.  Lander Pants, True Bias (found here)

photo credit: www.truebias.com

I don't currently own this pattern, but I'll gladly go off my self-imposed pattern buying ban because...LOOKIT those pants.  Every pair I've seen have been SO cool.  And the options for a cropped pair and shorts!  And I want to do the #landerpantsdance!!

#6.  M7387  McCalls Shirt Dress (found here)

photo credit: www.mccallpattern.mcall.com

View C with a shirt-tail hem, in light blue chambray, please!  Seriously, I've been fantasizing about a chambray shirt dress for a very.long.time.  Am I the only one to use the word "fantasize" when referring to sewing dreams?  Ahem...anyway...

#7.  Beverly Twisted Bikini, Named Clothing (found here)

photo credit: www.indiesew.com

Every girl needs a cool bathing suit.  One that makes her feel comfortable and sexy.  And wearing something different than everyone else on the beach.  This looks like it has a lot of potential for meeting those needs for me!  I own this pattern already, which is also a plus.

#8.  KS3764, KwikSew (found here)

photo credit: www.kwiksew.mccall.com

The Iconic Moto Jacket.  I've been dreaming about this one too.  I even have the red faux leather (vegan leather?, pleather?) in my stash awaiting it's moment.

AND...last but not least...

#9.  Renfew Top, Sewaholic (found here)

photo credit:  www.sewaholicpatterns.com

I have a lot of self-made tee shirts, from a lot of different pattern companies.  While I adore my most recent makes from my beloved Agnes tee pattern, I have had this pattern kicking around and want to use it too.  While I'm typing this post, it has gone from heavy rain to freezing rain to blustery snow, and version C with it's cuddly cowl is calling out to me!  This is another pattern that will span the seasons, so it doesn't matter what time of year it is when I get around to sewing it!

**Appendix for things I can't say "No" to:

A.  I also desperately want to make a fedora-style hat.  We have a local hat shop here in my town that offers classes, and it's been on my list of things to do.  WILL.DO.

B.  The Esplanade Bra by Orange Lingerie is also on my drool list.  As a strapless bra, it goes beyond angst-y to down right scary in my world of perceived fitting anxieties.  If I can accomplish my first nine, maybe I'll give this a go.

There you have it.  #makenine2018  Somebody remind me of this post when I'm making my millionth Boylston Bra.

FO - Sew Over It City Break E-book Alex Shirt #2

As part of My Big Easy SWAP plan (link to the post with my plans is: here), I had wanted to make a rust/mustard coloured shirt.  When I first tried the Alex Shirt from Sew Over It's City Break e-book, I loved it so much, I immediately cut out a second one.  I finished it just in time to take with me to The Big Easy.

Pattern Description:  from the Sew Over It website (Sew Over It City Break):

Alex Shirt & Dress
Two-in-one, the Alex Shirt Dress is a versatile, classic pattern that will take anyone seamlessly from day to night. Although always loose and comfy, this pattern can look completely different depending on fabric choices. Made in linen, the shorter Alex Shirt is ideal for exploring the city in the daytime. But choose a lightweight crepe, viscose or georgette and you have a glamorous, knee-length evening shirt dress, perfect for that special restaurant.

Pattern Sizing: UK 8 - 20.  I chose the size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, I would have to say it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I used them for my first version, but did not use them this time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I love that this is an easy to sew pattern for a very versatile basic item of clothing.  I can see wearing this as a shirt/blouse, buttoned up and tucked in or worn out over the waist band of the skirt or pants I'm wearing, or open as a jacket, over a tank top or tee-shirt.  Each of my versions look quite different, because of the fabric I used.

Fabric Used: a gorgeous silk georgette with a raised floral pattern in a dark mustard yellow colour

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I shortened the sleeves to accommodate the yardage I had.  When I tried it on, I decided to make them into cuffed 3/4 length sleeves.  As a result, I decided to leave the sleeve tabs off this version.  As I did on the first one, I also took the side seams in by about 1-1/2.  Next time I'll cut a smaller size and do a full bust adjustment.

I also folded the front bands to the inside instead of the outside like I did with my first Alex Shirt.  This was because the wrong side of the fabric would have been too apparent at the centre front.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I will definitely be sewing this again, and I certainly recommend it.  I need a black shirt/blouse and I also have been searching through my stash to make another in the dress length.

Conclusion:  Sew Over It has done a great job on this pattern.  It has become a TNT (tried'n'true) pattern for me that I cannot wait to sew again.

FO - Sew Over It Alex Shirt

I suffer from insomnia.  Over the years, I have learned to deal with this by napping, sleep therapy, and medication.  But, sometimes there's nothing to do except get up out of bed, make a cup of tea, and read, sew, browse the internet or knit.

That's exactly what happened last week.  I woke up in the wee hours of the morning, made a cup of tea and opened up my emails where I found the e-mail announcement for the release for the Sew Over It City Break e-book.  OH MAN.  This fits my sewing philosophy to a Tee! (See what I did there?!)  I love Lisa Comfort's aesthetic and patterns, and this e-book is no exception. And with the fashion photographs for the e-book being taken in Paris, there was nothing to do but grab my credit card and make a middle of the night purchase.  I then been dreamed about sewing a wardrobe based on these patterns and travelling to Paris!

This past weekend, a sewing friend of mine and I planned a sewing retreat of sorts.  Basically, we got together at my house, just the two of us, with assorted sewing machines, patterns, sewing necessities and fabrics for an entire weekend of just sewing.  We only stopped long enough to eat pre-planned quick meals.  Well...maybe some wine and a margarita or two - but only as a celebration of finishing a long day of sewing!

Because I had just gotten the City Break e-book and was SUPER excited about it, I couldn't help but incorporate one or two items of clothing into my NOLA Big Easy Swap plan, replacing the originally planned shirt pattern.  I chose the Alex Shirt & Dress pattern, printed it out, taped the pages together, traced off the pattern and jumped right in.

Pattern Description: From the Sew Over It website:

Alex Shirt & Dress
Two-in-one, the Alex Shirt Dress is a versatile, classic pattern that will take anyone seamlessly from day to night. Although always loose and comfy, this pattern can look completely different depending on fabric choices. Made in linen, the shorter Alex Shirt is ideal for exploring the city in the daytime. But choose a lightweight crepe, viscose or georgette and you have a glamorous, knee-length evening shirt dress, perfect for that special restaurant.

Pattern Sizing:  UK 8-20.  I chose the size 14 comparing my body measurements to those written in the pattern.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, I believe it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, very easy to follow.  I actually used them, thinking I would write a review.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  The instructions are very well written, and Sew Over It offers a lot of support on their website.  They even have a tutorial for putting PDF patterns together here:  http://sewoverit.co.uk/assemble-a-pdf-pattern/

The patterns are included as separate files from the e-book, which I really liked as well - this makes it really easy to figure out which pages you need for the specific item of clothing.

One thing I had trouble with was the tabs for the sleeves.  I'm sure this is operator error.  Mine turned out pretty narrow and a bit bulky, and as a result I had a great deal of trouble putting buttonholes into them.  I think next time I may attach them to a piece of stabilizer using temporary adhesive spray before trying to make the buttonholes.

As much trouble as the tabs gave me, I really like the end result.  They offer a bit of versatility to the shirt, and give it a designer detail.

Fabric Used: I used a dark navy poly lightweight, almost sheer georgette with white polka dots.  I was hoping this would be a wearable muslin.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I chose the pattern size 14 by using the measurements included with the pattern directions.  I added 3" to the length of the sleeves, based on my arm measurements, but I ended up removing about 2" of this when it came to hemming.  I also ended up taking in about 1-1/2" off of the side seams below the underarm.  I think next time I may size down one or two sizes and do a full bust adjustment to keep it from being quite so voluminous.  But for a wearable muslin, it turned out just fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I highly recommend this pattern and I did immediately sew it again out of a dark mustard yellow silk georgette with a raised floral pattern.  I just have to do the buttonholes and sew the buttons on, and then I'll write a post on it too.

Conclusion:  I can see this pattern as a TNT (tried 'n true) pattern in my wardrobe.  I am already searching through the stash to make it into the dress length!  I am also excited to try the other patterns in the e-book as they look like great basics too.  Lisa has really nailed it with the wear-ability of these patterns as a travel wardrobe.

I can see wearing this shirt with a pair of stretch jeans in mustard yellow with a chunky knit infinity scarf in cream or even a plaid blanket scarf for fall.