FO - I Heart Me!

I hate the commercialization that holidays of any kind have turned into.  Valentine's Day was the one of the first holidays to turn into a marketing blitz.  And being single on Valentine's Day makes my "inadequacies" glaringly more apparent.  Instead of a pity party, I've decided to take Valentine's Day on, head on.  Combine that thinking with the fact that I've been binge-sewing lingerie lately, and I came up with  the idea of celebrating ME in all my oneness by making myself a cute new lingerie set.  Or two.  Actually, I made three.

My goals this year include making 12 bras (see my 2018 Goals post here), and that has got my lingerie designing thinking cap on!  The ideas are just swirling around in my brain.  Where can I put lace, where do I use lining, what elastic do I have, how can I incorporate that special piece of whatever.  I have a ton of beautiful kits from Merckwaerdigh that have taken up residence in one of my stash bins (I can buy faster than I can sew!!), and want to use them.  For the first set, I wanted something that would something fun and cute.  A quick search through my stash turned up this kit:

I used the Bolyston Bra pattern from Orange Lingerie for the bra, which I've used before.  Now that I've fine-tuned the fit, it sews up quickly.  The part that takes the longest when I'm making a new bra is now the designing phase, where I try to figure out where I"m going to put which fabric, lace and elastic!  I used some of the elastic from the kit, and some from my stash, and I used foam for the cups from Bramaker's Supply.

Here's the finished bra:

I also made a pair of panties from the "leftover" fabric in the kit.  I used the Gabriella Knickers pattern by Evie la Luve.  It doesn't seem to be available anymore, but the pattern cover looks like this:

Mine look like this:

For bra #2 in my Valentine's celebration making frenzy, I made another Bolyston bra from yet another kit from Merckwaerdigh.  I wanted this one to be more feminine than cute.  It turned out very pretty, I think.  I used the stretch lace in the kit directly over the foam cups, without any lining.  I finished the tops of the foam cups with fold over elastic.  I used the plain, but very stretchy, cream colour spandex that came in the kit for the frame and bridge, but I used the stretch mesh over top of the spandex (instead of as a lining). I decided to cut the stretch mesh with the direction of stretch going in the opposite direction from the spandex to add a bit more support.  I added some pieces of the stretch lace at the side of the frames for added interest.  The bands are cut from power mesh to provide more support. 

I made a pair of Esme panties from Evie la Luve with the stretch lace back to match this bra, but the photograph of them seems to have disappeared.  I'll have to edit this post to put in a pic when I've had a chance to gather all the photography gear again.

And one more Bolyston bra set, this one from another kit from...you guessed it...Merckwaerdigh.  This one is definitely Valentine's themed in RED.

 The stretch lace in the kit has some brown accents, which are echoed in the elastics, also from the kit.  I went with the self-fabric strap on this version, which is as the pattern.  The foam I used for this bra came from Bramaker's Supply.  It is a bit softer than the foam I've used previously (you can see that in the photograph below), but I don't know how it wears.  I bought it mostly because it is red.  I finished the top of the foam cups with fold over elastic as well.

The panties are the Giselle Ruched Panties from Ohhh Lulu.  You guys!!  I love these - I made the size large based on my measurements, and they fit amazingly well (which you'll just have to take my word of, because I'm not ready to display my bootie on the 'net in all it's glory).  The ruching is such a pretty feminine touch, and I love it!  I cut the front piece from the stretch lace that was included in the kit.  The elastics were also leftover from the kit, with the exception of the one I used for the back ruching - that came from stash.

As an aside - I'm struggling with photographs for the blog.  I know I can do better.  I've even started pulling out my fancy DSLR, taking photographs at lunch time to take advantage of natural light, as well as running the photos through a photo editing software, but when you start with crappy lighting, well, you end up with a not so great photograph.  I've done everything in my power (currently, that is, without investing in some new lights for the studio, or a course in digital editing) to get a better photograph.  As a result, this colour red isn't really true to life.  But, you get the idea.  I've been having fun sewing a lot of new lingerie for myself. 

I'm saving the red set for it's debut on the 14th.  So if I see you then, you'll know what I've got on underneath!! ;)

January Goals Check In

January. The month often faulted to be the let down month after the holidays, known for Blue Monday.  This January has seen ups and downs for me, particularly because for a good part of January, I was stuck indoors battling the frigid temperatures we've experienced this month.  Shack-wacky as my daughter's boyfriend calls it.  That being said, being indoors during awful weather isn't so bad.  I've been hunkering down in my sewing room, creating, as well as knitting up a storm.  Or through the storm...Ha.  I make myself laugh.  Ahem.  Anyway.

Here were my goals for January and how I fared:

Knitting

1.  Finish Autumn Woods socks - first sock is finished, casting on the second pair today. Done!  Even the ends are woven in, and photographs are up on Ravelry!
2.  Finish Rikke hat.  Done!! I've been wearing this soooo much - its so soft and squooshy, I love the colours.  Handspun for the win!
3.  Finish Henry the Chipmunk.  All I have to do is the eyes, but for whatever reason it's been sitting on my shelf not finished for A-G-E-S.  Nope, gah.  Some day...for now he's sitting on my shelf in my office, judging me, still eyeless.
4.  Machine knit a sweater for Deklan (my grandson)   I didn't pull out the knitting machines, but I'm well on my way through the Sheepish Little Sweater as a hand knit, and I'm loving it! Sleeves on baby sweaters aren't the black hole they are on adult sweaters!  One more to go!
5.  Chose and spin one braid from my stash.  Nope - the spinning wheels are sitting, collecting dust in my living room.

Sewing

1.  Sew another Boylston bra (kind of cheating since this is already cut out and ready to sew) Done!  In fact, I made several!
2.  Sew a Fenway bra I haven't sewn a Fenway bra - I started.  I chose some fabric that I wouldn't be heartbroken to lose if it doesn't work out.  But then I realized I needed some supplies to make it a decent looking wearable muslin should it actually work out, so I'm working on collecting those before I can get into the sewing.  I sewed a couple more Bolyston Bras instead
3.  Chose a pattern from Burda magazine for lounge wear (I change every evening after dinner to flannel pants, and I think it's time to upgrade). I did sew some lounge wear but I didn't use a Burda pattern for it.  So half accomplished maybe?
4.  Plan and post my late Winter/early Spring SWAP plans. Done!
5.  Trace and sew one Toaster sweater. Done!  I'm not 100% happy with how it turned out, but it's wearable and cozy.

Reading

1.  Finish King's Crossing by Christine Kling Done!
2.  Finish Crucial Conversations  I haven't finished this, but am continuing to read this
3.  Finish You, Inc. I haven't finished this one either, but am still working through it.  
4.  Chose next fiction book  I've read a few this month actually.  I am currently in the midst of Life Mask by Emma Donoghue.  I'm having trouble getting into this one but it could be because I've been exhausted at the end of long days when I try to read it.
5.  Start reading Tribe of Mentors by Timothy Ferris  haven't started yet...
6.  Start reading Leaning In (received this one for Christmas from my Dad) also haven't started yet.


Health/Fitness

I've changed this title from original title of Physical Health/Fitness, because I need to pay attention to my emotional health and mental health too.

1.  Yoga with Adriene at least 3x/week. Well...it's been close to three times a week, but only because I was gently scolded by my chiropractor about getting back to stretching.  I've had some old aches and pains flare up this month, and have only been doing yogic stretches, not really a flow or power yoga I want.  Baby steps.
2.  Go to bed at 10 pm. Do you ever notice that when you state your plans, sometimes it just absolutely goes in the opposite direction?  I was lucky to see 11 pm for a bed time this month, and that's on the really late side for me!
3. Decrease alcohol intake during the week. Yeah, I decreased it.  Not by much, but it's a step in the right direction.  And I feel less guilty about my alcohol intake and absolutely enjoy the drink I do have.
4.  Meditate 3x/week.  I'm trying out a few new routines.  Like sitting in my office and quietly contemplating before I start my day.  So far, it works as long as I don't look at the email first.  Or get a phone call right away. I have the attention span of a gnat.  That's why it's called a practice!

Goals for February

Knitting

1.  Start and finish the personal sock club (PSC) sock for February
2.  Work on the Mackenzie sweater
3.  Spin one braid/bump/batt
4.  Finish the Sheepish Little Sweater for Deklan
5.  Start and finish birthday socks for Mom and choose the birthday socks for Dad

Sewing

1.  Sew a Fenway bra and pantie set

2.  Chose and sew one Burda pattern from the January 2018 issue (can't wait to try the yoga top and leggings!)

3.  Continue sewing Queen of the Dots SWAP items

Reading

1.  Finish reading Crucial Conversations
2.  Finish reading Life Mask by Emma Donoghue
3.  Start Leaning In

4.  Start the next book in the Libermann Papers series by Frank Tallis

5.  Start High Performance Habits by Brendon Burchard

Health/Fitness

1.  Get at least 7 hours of sleep at night.  Go to bed by 10 pm.  Try, try, try!  Sleep often loses out to sewing or knitting for me, but I'm so much better when I get enough sleep!
2.  Continue with yoga 3x/week in the mornings
3.  Meditate daily, every morning
4.  Move my body outdoors at least 3x/week.  Life for me is better when I get outside!

RAWRRRR!!! A FO

I was able to carve out some time in my Atelier this weekend (sounds so much better than sewing room in the basement, doesn't it?!), and finished a few more items for my Queen of the Dots SWAP.  When I sew my SWAPs, I try to do a bit of "production" sewing by sewing all of the items that use the same colour thread one after the other before changing out the thread.  My last FO (finished object) was the Image Wear 1002 top, which used red thread, so up next I decided to do the Agnes Top in the red leopard? animal print? brushed lightweight sweater knit fabric.

I got this fabric at my local Fabricland last week when I was shopping for the items for my daughter's pink dress.  Now, I *know* I'm aiming for the goal of only intentionally buying fabric (as in, something I have researched or planned rather than simply seeing it and purchasing it), but red.leopard.print.  Com'on!

Anyway...two meters came home with me for the Tilly and the Buttons Agnes tee. I have made the Agnes Tee quite a few times already, and it's a very straight forward sew that I can whip up in about two hours, including the cutting time.  My adjustments include a 3/4" swayback adjustment, adding 1" to the length of the sleeves and widening the sleeve from the elbow to the wrist, adding about 1/2" on each seam to make it a bit wider at the wrist.  I find on some of my earlier versions that were made without this adjustment I can't pull up my sleeves, which I like to do often.

When I finished that top, I took another look at my SWAP plans and one of my extras included a red Blackwood Cardigan by Helen's Closet.  I've also made three or four of these previously and they get a lot of wear.  They are cozy, yet make me feel put together.  I cut this version out of the left-over yardage I had in a medium weight red sweater knit, also from Fabricland but a long time ago.  I added about 2" to the centre front from just over the bust all the way down to the hem, to make it close a little more over my chest.  I also made my typical 3/4" swayback adjustment.  Other than that, it's pretty close to the pattern as printed.  The hardest part about this particular sweater was working within the confines of the piecemeal yardage I had, but I was determined to get this sweater out of it!

Reviewing my plans showed that I don't have much in the way of red items left for the main portion of my SWAP, so I switched out my threads to black for the next phase of sewing.

I cut and stitched a black ponte skirt made from the Basewear Two pattern by Christine Jonson patterns.  It was a super fast - I mean really super fast.  Two side seams, elastic waist and a hem.  Based on my measurements, I am a size 16 hip and 18 waist. I sized up to a 18 waist and 20 hip, because when I did the stretch test, the ponte seemed to have less give than what the pattern called for.  I ended up cutting it down when I tried it on for my first fitting before adding the elastic at the waist - it's probably a size 14 waist and 12 hip.  Even with the fitting snaffoo, its still a super simple and very quick make, made in about an hour (including cutting time).

Here's a recap of my Queen of the Dots wardrobe so far:

Queen of Dots, an Dotted FO!

For my second item for the Queen of Dots wardrobe, I decided to sew the top from Image Wear 1002.  Image Wear is a printed pattern line by Made by Oranges, who also publish the Image Wear magazine.   I'm pretty sure I got this pattern for free when I bought one of their magazine packs of back issues.

I really like the pattern photograph - bows are still a big trend and I thought it would work really well with the lightweight crepe I had chosen for this pattern.  The pattern pieces are given on a pattern sheet that looks like a Burda Style magazine pattern sheet.  I traced the size 42 based on my measurements, and made my standard adjustments, which are a 3/4" dartless FBA (from the Fast Fit book by Sandra Betzina), a 3/4" swayback adjustment, and adding 1" to the sleeve length. There are no seam allowances included on these pattern pieces, which makes the alterations a bit easier to manipulate.

The bow and collar are two separate items on this blouse, not a continuous collar that you tie in the front.  As with many European patterns, the pieces for the collar and bow are given as dimensions you need to cut out, no physical pattern piece is given.  The layout diagram shows the collar and bow being cut on the cross-grain.  I briefly considered how the collar would look as I didn't think it would drape around the curve of the neckline very nicely if it was cut on the cross-grain.  That being said, I also figured the pattern drafters would know better so I ignored the niggling feeling I had about the collar and plowed ahead.  

I'm pretty sure you know where this is going.  Here's what happened when I attached my collar.  

Not the look I was going for.  I tried folding it under like a facing or binding, but it puckered the body of the blouse like mad.  I unpicked it and restitched it with a different method and had the same result.  So I hacked off the collar, tossed it in the bin and used commercially made single fold narrow bias tape to finish it instead.

The rest of the construction was easy.  Initially, I decided to leave off the bow given the issues I had with the collar but then decided to finish the bow, and attach it with a safety pin like a brooch for a removable accessory.  It gives me some flexibility and I can also use the bow on other pieces of my SWAP if I like. 

If I make this again, I will draft collar pieces either to be cut on the bias or use a facing instead.  I really like the blouson effect that the elastic finish at both the lower hem and the wrists gives.  I think it's a pretty, feminine touch.

This will go well with the remainder of my planned Queen of Dots SWAP wardrobe.  More to come!

Twisted, a FO

A while back, I found a new to me pattern company.  Don't cha just love the internet?  Made by Oranges is a company based in the Netherlands, who publishes My Image, a semi-annual magazine with patterns for women. I have collected all of their issues over the past year or so.  Shipping from the Netherlands to Canada is relatively quick (about two weeks or so), and I haven't been any trouble with either the Canada Post or customs.  I've just resubscribed for the coming year, as well as purchased a subscription for B*Trendy, the children's pattern magazine they also publish.

The patterns in the magazines need to be traced the same as Burda Style magazine, which can be a bit confusing, but I highlight each pattern piece with a highlighter before tracing to make it less confusing.  I also place a bright work light directly over my work space when I'm tracing (and wear my reading glasses!).  The directions are just as brief as Burda magazines, but come in four languages. However, the lovely clothing with a touch of European flare make it totally worth all of this.  And, the glossy photographs of the clothes made in a number of different fabrics are well worth the purchase price.

This is my first Queen of the Dots SWAP piece.  Item #10 (Top #5) as noted in my previous post is My Image magazine #15, M1760 twist top in lightweight mustard heather jersey knit.  This fabric came from Fabricland (not sure if it was my local store or one I bought in a huge haul last October in Ottawa).  I've sewn this fabric up in other colourways previously, and it is lovely to wear, albeit a bit sheer.  I felt it would be perfect for the twist in this pattern.

I chose size 42 based on my measurements.  I made a 3/4" swayback adjustment, which is a standard adjustment for me, and graded the waist shaping out to accommodate my figure. I also added 1" to the length of the sleeves.

The challenging part of this pattern is obviously figuring out what the directions meant for the twisted part.  I was sewing in the evening after a taxing day, and it took me a few tries to figure out what the instructions meant, despite the drawings that are included for this pattern.  I did eventually figure it out by bringing the top over to the dress form and draping it this way and that. Once I got that figured out, I couldn't figure out how I was supposed to finish the portion of the top front and ripped a small hole during the stitching/unstitching/restitching process.  Fortunately, the hole was covered when I finally did figure out what I was supposed to do.  Next time, I'll add a bit of a wedge through this area to accommodate an FBA.

The body of the top ended up being quite long on me.  I cut off 2-1/2" from the length of the body.  I guess being able to cut off the length isn't a hardship, it's just an uncommon practice for me with my long legs and arms :p

I love the result.  I would love to make this top again, but as it is pretty distinctive, I won't make it again in this SWAP capsule.

Queen of Dots, a dotty SWAP

If you follow me on Instagram, you’ll have noticed a recent post of fabrics that I’ve pulled as a result of a stash toss (and maybe some recent purchases...ahem...).   In order to combat the winter blahs and the recent Blue Monday, I’m planning a late winter/early spring wardrobe for myself.  It’s definitely winter here right now, with cold temperatures and lots of snow/sleet/freezing rain. Usually, thoughts of spring have me dreaming of softer colours, like coral, turquoise and white, but for some reason I’m drawn to a dramatic wardrobe of red, mustard, black and grey.  Maybe I’m just not quite ready for spring yet? (Haha)

These are the fabrics I’ve pulled from my stash.  I love me my SWAP wardrobe (for the uninitiated, SWAP stands for Sewing With A Plan).  I spend hours dreaming about SWAPs, planning SWAPs,  sketching SWAPs, pulling fabrics for SWAPs from my stash, and buying fabric for SWAPs.

I typically plan around a SWAP core wardrobe, which I found in the Australian Stitches magazine series years ago (mid-90s /early 2000s maybe?)   I still have ALL of the original magazines that these articles were published in.  Each article added a few more clothing items to the author's wardrobe, which ended up being extremely wearable and very cohesive.  I travel a lot for both work and pleasure, and love that I can pack very quickly with a well planned wardrobe.



The core SWAP wardrobe I usually start with consists of:

1. Jacket, typically in a simple style such as a cardigan jacket
2. Pants #1
3. Pants #2
4. Skirt #1 in a solid colour
5. Skirt #2 in a print or check
6. Top #1
7. Top #2
8. Top #3
9. Top #4
10. Top #5
11. Top #6

The tops are a mix of coordinating solids and prints, one of which should match Skirt #2 for a dress look.

And here are my plans for the my SWAP.  Ignore the numbers associated with the items in my sketches as  the plans have already been revised a few times.  A few of the sketched items are from my existing wardrobe as well, so you won't see them in my sewing plans, and some of them are also noted below as Extras.

The Queen of Dots, a dotty SWAP

1. Jacket - short fitted collarless jacket in stone and black Prince of Wales stretch suiting
2. Pants #1 - Closet Case Sasha Trousers in stone and black Prince of Wales stretch suiting
3. Pants #2 - Christine Jonson Travel Trio One Centre Seam Pant in black ponte
4. Skirt #1 - self drafted pencil skirt in stone and black Prince of Wales stretch suiting
5. Skirt #2 - Christine Jonson Basewear Two skirt in black ponte
6. Top #1 - My Image magazine #12 M1612, black crepe with white polka dots
7. Top #2 - Butterick 5526 princess seam shirt, white crepe with black polka dots
8. Top #3 - My Image ImageWear IW1002 blouse with bow at neckline in red crepe with black polka dots (see why it's called Queen of  Dots?!)
9. Top #4 - Tilly & the Buttons Agnes Top with scoop neck and plain sleeves in red, black and tan leopard print brushed lightweight sweater knit
10. Top #5 - My Image magazine #15 M1760 twist top in mustard heather jersey knit
11. Top #6 - My Image magazine Fall/Winter 2013/2014 M1357  turtleneck sweater in white textured sweater knit

As is true for me when planning any SWAP, I have trouble limiting myself to only these items. That being said, I sew a lot with a high output of finished garments. #notbragging  #sorrynotsorry In fact, I make 99% of my own clothing.  I also own A LOT of fabric.  And I'm dotty to think I'll be able to focus long enough to get all these pieces finished before spring.  All that leads to my dream wardrobe to include the following items that I affectionately call "Extras".

1. Vogue 7827, view B flutter sleeve top, black georgette with tiny polka dot
2. Sew Over It Ella Blouse, red herringbone print crepe
3. My Image blouse with gathers at centre front neckline, Red, beige and black print crepe 
4. Sewaholic Renfrew top, view C with cowl, Black print lightweight sweater knit 
5. My Image Spring/Summer 2015 M1504 shirt, short sleeves with draped neckline, ITY jersey in black, beige, red and cream print 
6. Sew Over It Molly Top, ITY jersey in black, beige, red, blue and cream print 
7. cowl neck top or wrap top, black lightweight rayon/lycra jersey 
8. Helen’s Closet Blackwood Cardi, long version, red sweater knit 
9. Muse Patterns, Jenna Cardigan with ruffle at the hems, black sweater knit 
10. My Image magazine Fall/Winter drapey trousers, black brushed poly/rayon twill
11. Angela Wolf Flared Trouser Jeans, beige stretch cotton twill 
12. Boatneck tee with 3/4 length sleeves, black and white lycra jersey 

I'm not sure how likely it is that I'll get all of these done, but I already have the fabric pulled and the Extras flow really nicely with the pieces I've got planned for my Queen of Dots SWAP.  I can also adjust them for the spring/summer season by adjusting the length of the sleeves, hemlines and necklines.

Time to get sewing!!

Pretty in Pink, McCalls M7561

My daughter was invited to a destination wedding in the Dominican Republic for close friends of hers.  I love sewing for my girls, and offered to make her dress for her.  She picked out a few inspiration photos from Pinterest of dresses with fitted tops and floaty skirts.

Inspiration from Pinterest for bodice of dress

Inspiration from Pinterest for skirt of dress

I had some sparkly pink stretch lace fabric in my stash (I have no idea where I purchased it from or how long I've had it) that was just waiting for a special occasion dress.  I found McCalls M7561, which is a knit dress pattern to accommodate the stretch lace, and I went with a mash-up of views.  I used the front and back necklines of View B, but went without sleeves to match the inspiration photo.  The pattern uses the same front and back pieces for both the sleeveless and the sleeved version so I didn't have to make any adjustments at the armscythe while cutting out.  We also decided on the shorter length of View B to match the second inspiration photo.

Photo credit: www.mccallpattern.mccall.com

I headed to my local Fabricland to search for some fabrics in order to create the rest of the dress.  I was absolutely lucky to find a very soft rayon/lycra jersey that matched the pink of the lace.  I was even luckier to find it on clearance for $3/meter!  This became the base of the dress, as underlining for the lace and as the bottom layer of the skirt.  It's so soft and will keep her very cool.  It took some playing to get the rest of the fabrics skirt right as I couldn't find just the right colour chiffon for the floaty skirt.  The staff at Fabricland were excellent with their help and came up with the suggestion of layering a peachy colour chiffon under a dusty rose colour chiffon.  The peach was too bright on its own and the dusty rose was too muddy on its own, but layered together, they coordinated almost perfectly!  I was a bit hesitant to use a chiffon over the very stretchy jersey in a knit pattern, but I figured with all of the gathering at the waist, it would support the waist seam without being be too stretchy.

Concept drawing and playing with fabrics in my Sewing Journal

I constructed the underlining and the lace bodices as separate units at the shoulder and side seams, then basted them together at the neckline, armholes, and centre back before continuing with the bodice as one unit.  I stitched the side and back seams of the skirt layers separately, using French seams for the chiffon layers, and the serger for the jersey layer.  I based all three layers together at the waist seam and gathered them as one unit before stitching them to the bodice.

Another variation I made from the pattern was to add a centre back invisible zipper to ensure that the waist seam wouldn't have to stretch to get the dress on and off.  This also offered another area I could use to ensure the fit would be spot on.  I used a tricot interfacing on the seam allowance area near the zipper to keep it from puckering or stretching out.  I've adapted this method for almost ALL of my zippers no matter the fabric type, and am much happier when I do.  I hand basted the zipper in before sewing it in by machine.

During our first (and only due to weather, holiday, and travel time constraints!!) fitting, we decided to narrow the shoulder seams to make more of a cut in shoulder/tank style top. I narrowed them from the armscythe side as opposed to the neckline side, making more of a cut away shoulder line, tapering to the original underarm height as drafted.  The straps are still wide enough to cover her bra strap, but don't cover the entire shoulder.    And finally, the last change was to use 2-1/2" wide cross-cut strips of the rayon/lycra jersey to finish the armhole edges and the neckline, folded in half, then stitched on the right side of the bodice like you would on a tee shirt.  I then folded the binding completely to the inside and hand stitched to keep them from showing on the outside.  I think that simply binding the edges would have been too casual considering the rest of the dress.

I found a 1-1/2" wide silky look ribbon of an extremely close blush pink colour to add a finishing touch to the waist.  I think it turned out beautifully, and my daughter couldn't be happier.

She has promised me pictures of her wearing it on the day of the wedding, and I'll post them when I've got them from her!